Inle Lake

I can't believe it's been a year since we were in Myanmar! My photos STILL aren't fully edited, and most nights I only find enough time to do a few chores and eat some dinner... so I don't expect to finish them all anytime soon! That said, it's been a delight to look back on all these amazing memories on the anniversary of our trip. Our final stop, Inle Lake, was one of the most unique places that I've ever visited, and I feel so lucky to have captured a small sliver of it to remember.

After departing Bagan, we arrived at a tiny airport in the lake district by mid-morning... and realized we'd already made one giant mistake. Knowing that there would be an ATM at our arrival point, we'd neglected to stop for cash at a machine that morning. How wrong we were. After finding ourselves 30,000 kyat (or $25) short of the taxi fare, we were stranded. Thankfully, my father's genes came to the rescue, and I talked a lovely Germany couple into letting us tag along to their hotel. From there, we attempted to call our bank to figure out what was wrong, but the 10 hour time difference was working against us! I kept calling while Nick ventured into town. He roamed around the town, past stalls filled with fresh vegetables from the lake and vendors hawking fried pastries on rutted dirt roads. After trying five different ATMs, he finally found success at MAB Bank - our preferred banking partner! With a few thousand kyat burning a hole in his pocket, Nick bought a small bouquet of flowers for me, along with some for the German couple. Things were beginning to turn around! We had some beers sent to the room of our new German friends, and hopped in a tuktuk to head to our hotel.

Like with other trips, we saved the best hotel for last. After roughing it in some grubbier hostels, the Inle Resort was a revelation. Like the villages that dot the lake, the rooms of the hotel sat on stilts a few feet above the water's surface - it was the definition of serene. Having only briefly explored the main town in a mad hunt for cash, we decided to make a less frantic exploration the following morning. Riding in car or tuktuk along the bumpy road was one option to get back, but we opted for the preferred local transportation: a 30-foot dugout canoe powered by an outboard motor. After a chilly and damp ride back to town, we got our bearings by diving into the main market. It was a cacophony of sights and smells, with artisans selling their handmade wares, florists presiding over huge bouquets of flowers, and farmers tending to their assortment of produce - giant trays of hot chilies were especially prevalent. This was augmented by the wafting scent of strange and delicious foods: fried dough, grilled skewers of meat, hot bowls of noodles. The sensory overload made it easy to lose one's bearing; you had to remain light on your feet to dodge playful children, and avoid stepping on the tail of one of the innumerable dogs that may have wandered into your path. 

Power of a Photo...

When I return from trips abroad, people often ask: what was your favorite part? 

If I'm being honest, I never have an answer right after returning... there is just too much to process. Instead, I usually hem and haw, and come up with one amazing highlight, even if I haven't quite made up my mind. The passage of time provides more clarity however, and I find that there are often specific moments that resonate. Since my trip to Myanmar, I've had one experience that I can't get out of my head. It was a moment that I hope to never forget.

On our way to Mt. Popa (post here), our guide stopped at a tiny local village. While exploring the dirty paths between mud huts, the walkways neatly lined with sticks, we came across a group of children. I apprehensively took a photo of them. They just stared at me. As we continued, I took a few more shots, but the children immediately became reserved and shy. One child showed a bit of interest in the camera, even as another began to look upset. My natural reaction was to turn my camera around and invite them to see the photos. 

The small LCD screen wasn't sufficient to show the whole group, and some of the children were hesitant to come close. But curiosity overcame doubt, and one of the more self-assured boys slowly peered into the screen. An enormous smile crept onto his face. 

He looked at me and we both smiled. He looked at the photo again... and began to laugh. 

In an instant, caution was thrown to the wind as the group crowded around for a glimpse of the images. Almost immediately, the air filled with laughter.  They laughed uncontrollably at times, and begged me to take photos of them making silly faces and peace signs. Half the time I couldn't even get the shot in focus before they were grasping at the camera to see the result of their antics. The photos were often blurry and horribly cropped, but it could not have mattered less. 

After a slew of photos were taken, I asked the most timid girl in the group to push the buttons on the back of the camera to toggle through the photos. She began to scroll through the images, a look of sheer amazement on her face. After 10 minutes of avoiding the camera, the spell had been broken, and she gestured for me to take one of her. What began as an adorable sheepish smile slowly morphed into a giant grin.

They knew zero English, but we sat there laughing for minutes on end. It was a true testament of the power of a photo. Someday, perhaps, I will go back with the printed images. In the meantime, I smile every time I think of this moment... and hope that, somewhere, these plucky children are smiling too. 

Sunrises in Bagan

Before every good sunrise, there is a dark night. Each morning in Bagan we woke in that dark night, dressed quietly, and jumped on a rented motorbike. With the help of our headlamps, we navigated our way through unmarked dirt roads and dusty trails, clambered onto the temples, and crawled higher and higher as we raced the oncoming sun. As it rose, the peaks of temples slowly became visible, and started three of the most memorable mornings of my life. Like clockwork, right before the sun broke free of the horizon, dozens of hot air balloons took flight.  And just like that, Bagan stole my traveling heart. 

Thank you NB for taking of few of me too! XO. (Also, take a moment to find the people on the temples above...... )

Day Trip: Mount Popa Monastery

For about $40 we hired a car and driver for 8 hours. Our driver picked us up at our hotel, and drove us to a famous monastery 45 minutes outside of New Bagan. This beautiful Buddhist monastery is located on the summit of a volcanic plug created by the nearby volcano, Mount Popa. The volcanic plug is actually called Taung Kalat, but most people generally refer to it as Mount Popa. Perched at the top of the mountain, the monastery was extremely dramatic and very striking given that the rest of the landscape wasn't very mountainous at all.  

Although known as a popular destination for tourists, it is also a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists. According to Burmese Buddhist beliefs, it is believed the monastery is inhabited by the Great Nats, a group of guardians/spirits that protect everything from the water to the forest. As a result, there were Buddhist Monks visiting from all over the world - and they were very keen to document their journey (including with selfies!).

When we arrived, we walked around the town at the base of the mountain and cheerfully observed the events of a yearly festival. The highlight was a greased up piece of bamboo at the center of town. Hundreds of people were standing around as teams of men attempted to climb the bamboo... and get to the money blowing in the wind at the top! 

After that, it was 777 steps to the top, but we wouldn't be going alone. Before we took step one, we remarked at the number of monkeys - they were literally everywhere!

Myanmar Fields...

On day one in Bagan, between Sunrise and Sunset, we drove on our rented motobike (8 bucks a day!) from temple to temple. Thousands of temples remain scattered across the Bagan plain and as far as you could see... We only had enough time to stop at a handful, but we drove by hundreds. Many were on land owned by local farmers and villagers, and a remarkable number of those farmers were women. 

Local farmer hearding her goats from one field to the next. 

Pause.

When it takes you forever to finally edit photos... you get to relive moments just like this one. 

Bagan, Myanmar

Bagan, Myanmar

Sunsets in Bagan

We landed in Bagan with a few hours until sunset.  We opted to not to heed the warnings we'd read and jumped in the first mode of transport we saw: a horse and buggy. The animal lover in me cringed - I once reported a malnourished horse pulling a buggy in Central Park, after all - but our driver seemed to have a real affection for his horse, Rosie. As we skittered over potholes en route to the plain of temples, my anticipation grew immensely. Would there really be 4,000 temples? Would it really be as grand as I hoped?

As we'd been warned, the ride was indeed bumpy... but I simply didn't care. Seated in the rear of the buggy, Nick had a bit of a different perspective. I learned later that he was nearly bucked off the back of the carriage on numerous occasions... but up front, the ride was stunning. We turned off the two-lane, asphalt highway onto a winding dirt road, and all around us we began to spot beautiful thousand-year-old temples rising from the brush. It was more grand than any photo I'd seen, and more than my mind could fathom.

The first temple we visited is a very popular one with the tourist groups, even the thick crowds didn't bother me. Our driver parked in a neighboring field, and we entered the ancient halls of the temple. With enormous grins on our faces, we crawled to the top and took our place on the ledge to watch the sunset.  The hazy fields accentuated the vibrant colors of the setting sun, which changed by the minute. Our horse and buggy sat perfectly positioned for a few shots, and I enjoyed watching as our driver fed our horse heaps of fresh grass while they waited. The scenery was incredible, and the photos amazing. After that, we were hooked. 

It was the first of three Bagan sunsets (not to mention another four sunrises... but that's for another post). Each time we sought out temples with fewer and fewer visitors... and had the good sense to find a less bumpy mode of transport: an electric motobike. Every night, as the sun slipped below the horizon, the sound of my shutter inevitably hushed and a beautiful silence fell over the plain. Eventually we would tear ourselves away from the vista, knowing that the mosquitoes would find us before long.  Twice we stayed until it was quite dark, and wondered how we would find our way back down pitch black corridors. Fortunately for us, the stairwells leading out had been illuminated by local villagers with small individual candles. At the bottom, beaming smiles from young children evoked a small tip for the courtesy. All that was expected was a mere 25 cents, and we were happy to pay it... especially if it meant I didn't bust my head - or lense - tumbling down the steep stone stairs. 

 

 

Yangon Pagodas

We devoted much of our time in Yangon to visiting two spectacular Pagodas. These places of worship brought people from all over Myanmar, in particular those of Buddhist faith, to visit and worship. 

Said to date back 2500 years (let that sink in for a second), the original small pagodas have been rebuilt over time into enormous venues. Our first stop, Sule Pagoda, is located in the center of downtown Yangon. From our travel books, we learned this centrally located Pagoda has found its way into every historical event, frequently as a a gathering point, but also as a place for conflict and destruction. Once inside (shoes off, of course) we walked barefoot around enjoying the details. Unbeknownst  to us, we showed up right before the cleaning of the Pagoda. As if on cue, dozens of people, using handmade brooms, began cleaning the floors. There was a sense of harmony and peace in the repeated cascades of water and the swish of reeds on the old stone. Those who'd come to clean weren't temple employees or city personnel; they were local residents, volunteering their time and energy to put a little shine on the holiest location in their lives. Men grunted in chorus as they filled and overturned large buckets of water, while women chatted jovially as they worked their brooms back and forth. The location was foreign to us, but the simple task and genial camaraderie felt warm and familiar. It was a uniquely human moment that reminded us: no matter how long it took to get from one corner of the globe to another, the world is still a pretty small place.

The second pagoda we visited was called Shwedagon Pagoda. We'd read that it was lovely at night, so we grabbed a taxi and headed there right at sunset. Hardly any English is spoken in Myanmar, but we were armed with a guide book and able to show the driver where we wanted to go - and just like that, we were off! We arrived and were promptly dressed by employees manning the entrance. Shorts are strictly forbidden, so we both covered up in traditional longyis. We ditched our shoes and entered right as the sky turned a beautiful shade of rose. It's difficult to capture the history and enormity of Shwedagon with mere words. It is quite possibly the oldest Buddhist Pagoda in the world, and our local guide, Nender, helpfully informed us that the crown is tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. The very top—a glimmering diamond bud—is tipped with a 76-carat diamond. The core is built with brick, and covered in genuine gold plates. The main Pagoda is 325 feet tall... again, let that sink in for a second. Surrounding it are dozens of other Pagodas, each unique and each representing something a bit different.  As Myanmar's most sacred site, hundreds of monks from all over the world visit daily, and we felt honored to be amongst them. The details, the candles, the incense burning... it was all so much to take in, and overwhelming in a beautiful way. Even as someone who isn't very religious, there was something unbelievably special about being amongst people who have come, not as tourists, but as pilgrims to a holy place to worship. 

Yangon, Myanmar

It's been hard to sit down, sort through my thousands of photos and tell the story of my trip to Myanmar. I'll be honest: if I posted all my favorite photos, I could post for an entire year. With that said, I'll try to only share a few. Anyone interested in traveling to Myanmar: do it. You will not be disappointed. It was epic. 

We started our adventure flying into Yangon, the largest city in the country (which was formerly known as Burma). Nearly untouched by tourists, the city felt industrial and uniquely authentic. The city was dotted with British colonial architecture, men and women wore traditional longyis, street food was prevalent, and dogs roamed... everywhere. It was like no place I've ever been, and yet, I was certain going into it, it would ring familiar. While I'm not sure I would choose to visit Yangon again, we were happy to be there and see what we could. There's a separate post coming up for the pagodas we visited, and here is a taste of the city streets: 

 

 

Super Bloom 2017

Thanks to this years rain, Southern California is exploding with wildflowers. To experience it for ourselves, Nick and I headed for the hills. 

Thousands of flowers lined the road and hillsides, but I think I have more photos of Sadie than I do flowers. Such a beautiful pup. (Soon, photos of Kuma) Below are just a few of the flowers we saw.  I counted at least 5 additional ones I didn't photograph. If you have a chance to witness this years "Super Bloom", I recommend it. Hundreds of people will join you, but the higher into the hills, the fewer the people. 

Zion Narrows Hike: Miles 1-8 (Part 1)

Two years ago a co-worker told me about this amazing hike in Zion National Park. Unlike most hikes, this one seemed a bit daunting and would take a considerable amount of planning. The Zion Narrows hike is a 16 mile hike, along the base of a canyon. For about 10% of the hike, you're walking along a beautiful river. For the other 90%, you're walking IN the river. Total hiking time, even for athletic hikers, 12 hours. Ooof. 

Despite all of that, we started planning. First thing was buying permits to enter the canyon. With only about a dozen permits given out every day, they are hard to come by. Online purchases of them sell out in a matter of minutes, and are done so, three months in advance. Again, far more planning than we were accustom to. But, at this point, having seen a few photos we were in. Hopeful to recruit a few additional suckers, we snatched up 6 permits. We were locked into a weekend. 

Fast forward a few months, we rangled a few friends into thinking this was a good idea. Ha! Suckers! and we started getting gear together. None of us had ever hiked for longer than just a few hours, so 12 hours was a bit intimidating, to say the least. We learned about renting shoes, hiking poles, and feverishly checked the weather as the hike approached. 

The weather would be by far the most dangerous element to the hike. The possibility of a flash flood is always high and with canyon walls that are at times 2,000 feet in the air, even the smallest change in weather, miles away, can take to the canyon with zero mercy for the existed hikers inside. With stretches in the canyons hours long with no high ground, we were insured by the park rangers, we would certainly die. (Insert: Reality Check). We were well versed on the signs of a potential impending flash flood, but even so, the Park Rangers did their jobs when we showed up. A&E needs to hire some of these Zion Park Rangers, the've got scared straight down... pat. 

Nonetheless, we charged on. The morning of, we woke up at 4:30, and immediately checked the weather. We made a quick breakfast and checked the weather.  Packed our bags (multiple weather checks) and headed for the trail head. By 6 we lost service, something we wouldn't have again for 12 hours.... a long period of time for the weather to change. If the park rangers decided it was too dangerous, they would close the gates.... but only after we would need to start our one day hike.  By 6:50 we started... later than expected. 

For an hour we quickly hiked with our headlamps until we reached the waters edge. As we did, the sun began to rise and with it, an unexpected surprise.... tree lining the waters edge were all changing colors. Fall was at the base of the canyon, something we never thought about when deciding to book this weekend. 

We hiked the first half slower than we should have. Before we knew it we were behind schedule, despite feeling as if we were moving at a reasonably quick pace. Our biggest mistake... assuming we weren't the usual hiker... that our fitness level would certainly get us out of the canyon under 12 hours. Well, we were wrong.  We were mesmerized by the scenery and I have no doubt that slowed us down. 

The colors were magnificent!! 

(Posting Part 2 shortly)

 

 

 

 

Zion Narrows Hike: Miles 8-12 (Part 2)

(Part 2 of 3)

I'm not certain we expected the walls of the canyon to be towering thousands of feet above us for the majority of the hike. In fact, I know at one point we thought we were in the "narrows" section, and only learned later that no, we were just in a regular area... where it just so happened to be incredible. Every mile of this hike was breathtaking. 

Between mile 8-10 we tried to make up ground. Our fast pace lit a fire in our knees and most of us were in desperate need of a break. Having tried to avoid online photos prior to the trip, Im not sure any of us know what to expect when we saw the next landmark was "Big Springs". Either way, it sounded like a good place to take a quick lunch break. We continued for a bit, turning the corner to see this: 

We stopped for 20 minutes, eating our pre-made sandwiches, and taking a few photos. Several people in the group used the break to down a few pain killers and tape knees. Before we knew it, we were back in the water. 

As I mentioned in Part 1, about 90% of the hike was actually IN the river. In fact, the part rangers insisted we walk in the river as much as possible to try and prevent erosion. Unfortunately that added a tremendous amount of time, curving as we made our way down the canyon. At times we had to take a few moments to discuss the best route because it was DEEP in some pockets. 

Zion Narrows Hike: Miles 12-16 (Part 3)

The pictures speak for themselves. The last few miles were nothing short of amazing. 

Over two beautiful hours we finished the last few miles of the hike, and walked through the most dangerous and stunning stretch of the canyon. In places the walls rose 2,000 feet above us, blocking out the afternoon sunlight. It was a humbling experience, and one I look forward to doing again. About 10 hours into the trip at this point, we remarked on how long it had been since we had an electronic weather reading, and how easy the weather could have changed without us knowing. We finally understood the rangers' warning that if a flash flood occurred, we would die... no way around it. In the bottom of the Narrows, with sheer rock faces on either side, we could see first hand that there was absolutely no high ground. If weather had changed anywhere in the neighboring states, a pop up rainstorm could end us. As a group, we talked again about the signs of a flash flood: the water changing color, an increase in debris, a slight change in water level. If we saw any of these things, we may be given a couple extra minutes to get ahead of the wall of water, and avoid the untimely fate that consumed 7 people in 2015. Thankfully, we were totally clear, and experienced a wave of relief when we began to see other people walking from the bottom up, an indicator that the park rangers saw no risky weather on the horizon.  

(Above) Can you see how small we looked! 

Pure Imagination...

(2010- Jackson State Fair, Jackson, Mississippi)

(2010- Jackson State Fair, Jackson, Mississippi)

Come with me and you'll be
In a world of pure imagination
Take a look and you'll see
Into your imagination

We'll begin with a spin
Traveling in the world
Of my creation
What we'll see
Will defy explanation

If you want to view paradise
Simply look around and view it
Anything you want to, do it
Wanna change the world?
There's nothing to it

There is no life I know
To compare with
Pure imagination
Living there, you'll be free
If you truly wish to be

If you want to view paradise
Simply look around and view it
Anything you want to, do it
Wanna change the world?
There's nothing to it

There is no life I know
To compare with
Pure imagination
Living there, you'll be free
If you truly wish to be

100 Years....

2016 marks the centennial for the National Park Service,  the mission of which is to preserve “unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the National Park System for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations. The Park Service cooperates with partners to extend the benefits of natural and cultural resource conservation and outdoor recreation throughout this country and the world.”  

The time we have spent in each National Park we have visited has been both unique and memorable. I can not wait to visit so many more.  Happy Birthday to the National Park Service! 

Arches National Park, 2014

Arches National Park, 2014

 

 

 

 

Magical Exit...

Took this through the windscreen as a left JTNP. I encourage all to visit. It's a magical place. Truly, truly, magical.